Revert "Set compiler versions in context (#755)"

[vyasr]

Closes #773

[vyasr]

Now things look as expected in the CUDA 12.1 variant build:

 │ │ │ gcc_impl_linux-aarch64           ┆ 12.4.0       ┆ h628656a_2       ┆ conda-forge ┆  56.19 MiB │
 │ │ │ gcc_linux-aarch64                ┆ 12.4.0       ┆ heb3b579_10      ┆ conda-forge ┆  31.88 KiB │
 │ │ │ gxx_impl_linux-aarch64           ┆ 12.4.0       ┆ h0bf7a72_2       ┆ conda-forge ┆  11.36 MiB │
 │ │ │ gxx_linux-aarch64                ┆ 12.4.0       ┆ h3f57e68_10      ┆ conda-forge ┆  30.23 KiB │
...
  │ │ -- The CXX compiler identification is GNU 12.4.0

[bdice]

/merge