- 2 PCBs
- 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros
- 2 Sockets (Note of the socket height. This will dictate what standoffs height you can use)
- 2 4.7k resistors. Only Through Hole is supported. (Optional if you want to use I2C)
- 2 surface mount TRRS Jacks (PJ-320D-A)
- 2 surface mount reset switches (switch 5.25.21.5 250gf Copper head)
- 54 1N4148 Diodes. Through Hole and SMD supported
- 1 TRRS Cable
- 2 WS2812 Strips
- 2 Top PCB Plates
- 2 Bottom PCB Plates
- 36 M2x4mm screws (18 per side)
- 18 M2x12mm standoffs (9 per side) (or M2x14mm for tall sockets)
- 2 Top PCB Plates
- 2 Bottom PCB Plates
- 32 M2x4mm screws (16 per side)
- 16 M2x8mm standoffs (8 per side) (or M2x10mm for tall sockets)
- 4 PCBs (same PCBs will be used for Bottom Plates - 2 per side)
- 32 M2x4mm screws (16 per side)
- 16 M2x8mm standoffs (8 per side) (or M2x10mm for tall sockets)
- Left Case Top
- Left Case Bottom
- Right Case Top
- Right Case Bottom
- 2 Left Top
- 1 Left Switch Plate: Note the engraving around the 2u thumb hole for the stabilizer wire
- 4 Left Mid Insert
- 1 Left Bottom
- 2 Right Top
- 1 Right Switch Plate: Note the engraving around the 2u thumb hole for the stabilizer wire
- 4 Right Mid Insert
- Right Bottom
- 20 M2x12 standoffs (10 per side)
- 20 M2x6 screws (10 per side - for the bottom)
- 20 M2x12 screws (10 per side - for the top)
The number of switches and stabilizers depends on the desired configuration for the thumb switches.
| Configuration | Switches | 2U Cherry Stabilizer |
|---|---|---|
| 4x1U | 54 | 0 |
| 2x1U + 1x2U | 53 | 1 |
| 2x2U | 52 | 2 |
To avoid building two left or two right halves, place the PCBs side by side with the thumbs facing toward each other.
The Master half will be connected to the USB port. This will decide where we install the I2C resistors. Note: In the end, it doesn't matter much if you have the resistors on the slave.
Divide the components in two halves and keep with each PCBs. Put the 2 resistors with the master half.
Note: Unlike some other keyboards, there are no jumpers to configure for the left or right halves.
Install diodes on bottom side of the board. On each half of the board, the diode beneath the pro micro will need to be installed on the top side of the board. For V1.01, there is no longer a diode under the pro micro.
Use a straight edge to bend the diodes prior to installing them on the board.
Black line on the diode lines up with the square pad and white line on the PCB silkscreen, bend the legs and push it through.
Bands must match the bands on the silkscreen and the square pads.
Diodes ready to be installed on the left half. After inserting both legs into the PCB, bend the legs outward to keep the diodes in place when soldering.
Top view:
(Only applies to the V1.01 version) The diode beneath the pro micro will need to be placed on top of the PCB so that it does not come in contact with the pro micro.
Bottom view:
Note the orientation of the diodes that are positioned horizontally. It is important that the bands on the diodes match the bands on the silkscreen and the square pads.
Diodes ready to be installed on the right half.
Top view:
The diode beneath the pro micro will need to be placed on top of the PCB so that it does not come in contact with the pro micro.
Bottom view:
Note the orientation of the diodes that are positioned horizontally. It is important that the bands on the diodes match the bands on the silkscreen and the square pads.
Once all of the diodes are in place they are ready to be soldered. After soldering, clip the legs on the diodes flush with the PCB. Do not discard the legs from the diodes if you plan to install sockets for the pro micro.
Diodes soldered on the left half.
Top view:
Bottom view:
Diodes soldered on the right half.
Top view:
Bottom view:
The ErgoTravel PCBs are also compatible with surface mount diodes. When placing the diodes, be sure to orient the white lines on the diodes with the bands on the PCB.
Add a small amount of solder to one of the SMD pads.
While holding the diode with tweezers, reflow the solder on the pad and place the diode into position making sure that the bands on the diode align with the bands on the PCB.
With the diode in place, add solder to the other side of the diode.
Diodes soldered on left half:
Diodes soldered on right half:
Note that I2C is currently not compatible with WS2812 RGB underglow If you are working on the Master Half, install the resistors near the top, on the top side. You will need to make a solder bridge at the Jumper location on both halves to enable I2C communication. This jumper is located next to the resistors. Bridge on the "bottom" side so that you have access to it once fully assembled.
If you are working on the slave side, continue to the next step. The slave side does not have resistors.
If resistors are on installed the slave instead of the master, it should still work fine.
Install Reset switch on the bottom side of the boards. This is a surface mount switch.
Apply some solder to one of the 4 pads.
Place the switch in position. Melt the pre-applied solder to "tack" the switch in place. Some recommend to put some solder on the 4 pads. I find it easier to align the switch if only 1 pad has solder pre-applied. Using tweezers, you can hold the switch and gently touch the leg with the soldering iron and melt the solder.
Let the solder solidify and solder the other legs.
Install TRRS Connector on the bottom side of the boards. This is a surface mount connector. Apply some solder to one of the 4 pads; preferably to the side that had a single connection.
Place the connector in position. Melt the pre-applied solder to "tack" the connector in place. Some recommend to put some solder on the 4 pads. I find it easier to align the connector if only 1 pad has solder pre-applied. Using tweezers, you can hold it and gently touch the leg with the soldering iron and melt the solder.
Solder the other 3 connections.
To increase the strength of the TRRS connectors soldered on top of the board, add a drop of cyanoacrylate glue to each hole from the other side of the PCB. By using a liquid glue (not a gel),the glue will seep through the hole and insert itself between the PCB and connector. Let the glue set as per the manufacturer instructions.
Install Pro Micro Sockets on the bottom side of the boards. DO NOT SOLDER THE PRO MICRO.
Place the sockets on the boards and use some tape to hold them in place.
Once in place, solder a single pin and then remove the tape. While holding the PCB, press down on the socket with your finger and reflow the soldered pin with the iron. Properly align the socket, remove the iron, and allow the socket to solidify. Do not place your finger over the pin that is soldered. It gets hot.
After you are satisfied with the alignment of the sockets, solder the pin on the opposite side of each socket to hold it in place. Solder the remaining pins.
Install Pro Micro Headers on the bottom side of the boards. DO NOT SOLDER THE PRO MICRO.
PLACE IMAGE HERE
Validate that the diodes were installed correctly. Once the switches are installed through the top plate, it will be close to impossible to replace the diodes without unsoldering everything. If the diodes are installed on the bottom of the PCB, it is possible to unsolder the diodes, however, resoldering a new diode will require trimming the leg before soldering.
Only the first half is done... Rinse and repeat...
Bottom view of the left PCB with all components installed:
Bottom view of the right PCB with all components installed:
If you plan on adding RGB underglow, start soldering the connectors now. See Installing RGB Strips for details.
Depending on whether you want 4x1U, 2x1U+1x2U or 1x2U+2x1U or 2x2U, you will require 0, 1 or 2 2U PCB Mount stabilizers.
Depending on where you obtained your stabilizers, you may have to put them together before installing them. When assembled, they look like this:
If you want to lubricate your stabilizer or do anything special to them, now is the time...
When installing the stabilizers, the twin legs as shown here:
are installed towards the "outside" of the PCB. Note that the hole diameters for installing the stabilizers are not the same between the two sides. The stabilizer should only fit one way.
To install the Stabilizer, first pass the small single hooks (on the wire side) through the larger holes (towards the center of the board).
Then press down on the other side of the stabilizers (outside edge of the PCB) to engage the clips within the smaller holes. You may have to squeeze gently on the twin legs for them to go through the hole. Once through, the stabilizer will "snap" in place.
The legs should be fully snapped in place for the stabilizer to work properly.
This step only applies if you have an Internal Screw PCB Top Plate
Ignore if you use the "External Screws PCB Case".
How do you know if you have an External Screws Case or an Internal Screws Case?
See the picture below:
Installing the screws is not possible from above the top plate.
The hole on the top plate is large enough to pass a screwdriver through but not enough for the screw head.
Take each assembled PCB and install the screws and standoffs right now. See the two pictures below:
Once assembled, the screws will be hidden from the top. Seen from the side, the standoffs only go between the PCB and Bottom plate. The Top Plate is only held by the friction with the switches. This is similar to the GH60 and the Contra.
Select the top plate for the side you are building. Inspect carefully both sides of the plate for imperfections (put them inside to hid them) or, in the case of the acrylic plates, for which side is engraved for the stabilizer wire.
Place the Top plate above the PCB and install switches at each corner to hold everything in place. Solder the four switches in while pressing down on the PCB to push the PCB and switches together.
Once the corner switches are installed, install the remaining switches and solder them in place.
It's easier to replace a faulty Pro Micro if it's not already installed.
Pro Micro Orientation - it is important to orient the controllers in the correct direction. The Pro Micro on the left side of the keyboard will have the components facing toward the bottom plate. The Pro Micro on the right side of the keyboard will have the components facing the PCB. NOTE: The PCB has an indication of the RAW pin. Match this pin with the silscreen of the Pro Micro.
In the photo above, the left side of the keyboard is on top and the right side of the keyboard is on the bottom.
Tape over the sockets using painter's tape so that the Pro Micro does not get soldered directly to the sockets. Press firmly on the tape in order to see the outline of the sockets.
Use the diode legs that were saved from the previous steps. Insert a couple of the pins in order to line everything up and then place the Pro Micros on top of the sockets. Make sure to face one up and the other down. Do not face the Pro Micros in the same direction Insert pins into the remaining holes.
Once the pins are in place, solder the Pro Micros. After soldering, use flush cutters to trim the excess wire. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the Pro Micros out of the sockets in order to remove the tape.
After gluing around the edges of the USB connectors, us a sharp hobby knife to cut off any excess glue.
Go to the troubleshooting guide