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TOTEM BUILD GUIDE

PART LIST

REQUIRED PARTS

Part name Count Remarks
TOTEM PCB 01 You can find the files for it here
Seeed Studio XIAO 02 You can choose between the nRF52840 BLE version (wireless) or the RP2040 version (wired)
Choc key switch 38 Kailh Choc low profile key switches
diodes 1N4148W 38 These are surface mount diodes in SOD123 package
1u Choc keycaps 38 You can use the black or white keycaps from Kailh, but I recommend MBK, LDSA or CFX keycaps
reset button 02 Alps SKHLLCA010
USB-C cable 01 For connecting the keyboard to your PC
power switch 02 MSK12C02 (only required for the Bluetooth build)
Lipo battery 02 There is space for a 15 x 22 x 7.5 mm battery (only required for the Bluetooth build)
TRRS jack 02 MJ-4PP-9 or PJ320A (only required for the wired build)
TRRS cable 01 Alternatively, you can use a TRS cable for half-duplex (only required for the wired build)

OPTIONAL PARTS

Part name Count Remarks
switch socket 38 Switch sockets for Kailh choc switches

3DP CASE PARTS

Part name Count Remarks
3D printed case 02 Find the case files here
6mm M2 standoffs 08 6mm round standoffs for screwing the top and bottom of the case together
6mm M2 countersunk screws 16
8.5mm rubber feet 8 they can also be smaller

TENTING CASE PARTS

Part name Count Remarks
Additional 8.5mm rubber feet 2 Optional, they can also be smaller
Tenting feet 4 Example source here
Anti-Slip adhesive sheet 1 Optional, example source here

INTRODUCTION

Here is an overview of where and on which side each component needs to be soldered (click on the image to see a larger version).

TOTEM solder guide


BREAK OFF HALVES

The PCB comes in one piece. You need to break it into two halves.

TOTEM PCB

After breaking them apart, you're left with some sprue marks, which you can remove with a file if you like, but you don't need to.

Warning You should wear a mask while doing this since the FR4 dust is considered to be toxic.

PCB sprue marks

I paint the edges black using a sharpie, so they fit better with the top and bottom, but that's optional too.

PCB edges


DIODES

The diodes need to be soldered on the top of the PCB. Pay attention to their orientation: They have a small line on one side, which should be on the side the arrow on the PCB is facing to.

diode orientation

Apply a small amount of solder on one pad.

Solder on one pad

Then use tweezers to place the diode on the pads and reheat the solder to secure the diode.

Solder diode

Now you can solder the second pad.


SWITCH SOCKETS (optional)

Here you can apply the same technique as used for the diodes: Apply some solder on one of the pads first.

switch sockets pad

Then place the switch socket in the silk screen markings. The orientation matters here too. Especially if you plan on using the case.

hotswap socket orientation

hotswap socket right and wrong orientation

Then reheat the solder. Apply some pressure with a pair of tweezers to make sure the socket is fully seated.
Now solder the second pad.

switch socket soldered


POWER SWITCHES (only required for Bluetooth build)

Apply a tiny bit of solder on the bigger, outer pads on top of the PCB.

power switch pads

The power switch has some tiny knobs on its bottom, which fit into the PCB holes. Hold it in place with tweezers and then reheat the solder on the pad. After this, you can solder the other pad and the three pins.

power switch


RESET SWITCHES

Insert the switch into the top of the PCB.

reset switch

I placed the footprint a bit more towards the edge, than it's meant to be, to integrate it better into the case. Therefore the tiny stabilizer on the bottom of the switch doesn't touch the PCB anymore. Make sure it is aligned with the PCB vertically, so it's oriented correctly.

reset switch orientation

Then solder the four pins on the bottom to the PCB

reset switch solder


TRRS JACKS (optional)

Warning You don't need the TRRS jacks for running the TOTEM with ZMK. Actually, you can damage your board when connecting it through TRRS, while also connected to a battery.

Install the TRRS jack on the bottom side of the PCB. The place where you should insert it is marked with a white line.

TRRS jack

You may want to use some masking tape to hold it in place since you need to solder it on the bottom.

TRRS jack taped

Then solder the pins on the bottom to the PCB.

TRRS jack soldered


MICROCONTROLLER

Warning First flash the microcontroller to make sure it works, before soldering it in. Especially since you can't use sockets.

Place the microcontroller in its place.

Note If you're struggling with keeping it in place you can use the headers, which came with it, and some double-sided tape. But make sure it sits flat on the PCB. Otherwise, the case won't fit.

Apply some flux and try to hold the iron at an angle where you touch the pads of the microcontroller and the PCB while adding solder.

soldering MCU

The pads on the back are a bit fiddly to solder, so you should add a lot of flux to the pads on the microcontroller first. Then apply the same technique as on the front: Try to touch the pads on the microcontroller and the PCB before adding solder.

soldering MCU back


BATTERY (optional)

Warning You don't need the battery for running the TOTEM with QMK. Actually, you can damage your board when connecting it through TRRS, while also connected to a battery.

You probably need to shorten the cables and tin them, since the length needs to be pretty short, to fit. I've also plasti dipped mine.

shorten battery cables

Warning Before attaching the battery in any way to the PCB set the power switch to off (right on both sides).

You can see which cable needs to go in which eye by the silkscreen below the eyes. Red is + / Black is -.

battery face

Attach the wires of the battery to the pads and solder them in.

Ouch


CLEANING

You can use an old toothbrush and some isopropanol to clean it from residues.


FIRMWARE

If you have not already flashed the firmware to the microcontroller you should do it now.
Here you can find the ZMK firmware for the TOTEM.
Here you can find the QMK firmware for the TOTEM.\

Probably a good idea to also install switches to make sure all of them work, before inserting the board into the case.

PCB with switches


CASE

Note I'm using the transparent version of the case, so it's easier to see where everything goes, but it's identical to the black/white case.

First, install the standoffs from below into the top of the case.

Top case with standoffs

Next screw them in from above.

Top case with screws

Now insert the board into the top and connect them using the switches.

Top case with switches

The bottom has some insets for using rubber feet.

bottom case insets

You can then attach the bottom to the case and screw it in.

bottom case screws


FINAL BUILD

This is what the final keyboard will probably look like.

final build