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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html lang="en">
<head>
<title>The World Inside Our Home</title>
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<body>
<div id="body-container">
<!-- START OF HEADER BUTTONS FOR STORY PAGES -->
<!-- Project masthead -->
<div class="heading-container center-text">
<!-- Project title -->
<div class="project-title">
<h1 class="project-title black-font bold-text center-text no-line-height">The World Inside Our <span class="home-cursive home-color">Home</span></h1>
</div>
<!-- Industry buttons -->
<div class="section-buttons" id="header-buttons">
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<button id="sec1Button" class="buttonA"><a href="#part-1">Where do we source our food</a></button>
<button id="sec2Button" class="buttonA"><a href="#part-2">How are our food habits changing</a></button>
<button id="sec3Button" class="buttonA"><a href="#part-3">What does food say about us</a></button>
<button id="homeButton" class="buttonA home-button"><a href="index.html">Home</a></button>
<button id="buttonAbout" class="about-button grey-hover" type="button" value="About"><a href="about.html">About</a></button>
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</div>
<!-- END OF HEADER BUTTONS FOR STORY PAGES -->
<!-- START OF STORY PAGE -->
<div id="part-1">
<div id="container" class="container-1">
<div id="sections">
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="main-title black-font">Born in Wales, made in the world</h3>
<p class="credits-info credits">Text and Graphics by <span class="bold-text">ROWENA F. CARONAN</span></p>
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">GRANDER than any web a spider could accomplish. Humans have spun a complex web of trade routes across the world to share food for hundreds of years. The map to your left illustrates a small part of that web: trade flows from 180 countries and territories into the UK in 2017.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">These trade routes carried about 40.8 million tonnes of food and 40 million live animals worth £43.5 billion. This amount is equivalent to the combined six months’ worth of groceries of all British families.</p>
<p class="story-paragraphs">The UK has imported about half of its food consumption in the last 10 years. Wine, ketchup, sauces, condiments, pastry, chocolate, cheese, bacon and ham, and chicken are its most valuable food imports.</p>
<p class="story-paragraphs graph-texts black-font">Hover over the lines or circles on the map to see the import details for each country.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs no-margin-bottom">Suppose we cook a dish called <span class="italicized-text">cawl</span>, a Welsh word for soup or broth and Wales’s national dish. In North Wales, it is called lobscows. It derived its origin from Celtic cooking of using easily attainable ingredients, a hanging cauldron, and an open fire.</p>
<img src="images/cawl.png" alt="cawl" class="story-image-within-scroll larger-story-image">
<p class="story-paragraphs">Today, a bowl of this dish may be linked to an estimated 117 countries and territories, which supplied the UK with 2.6 million tonnes of food and 9,355 live animals in 2017. These imports were valued at £4.8 billion.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">Zoe Jones, Margaret Davis, and Tommy Ray, restaurant owners in the villages of Manorbier, Laugharne, and Tenby in South West Wales, respectively, serve this traditional Welsh food. Although one’s recipe may differ from the other’s, they all agree on one thing: cawl is cooked with Welsh lamb and extended by root vegetables. Leeks, potatoes, carrots, swedes, parsnips, cabbages, and onions find their way into cawl. Herbs like thyme may also be added. Cawl is traditionally served with slices of bread and slivers of cheese to be sprinkled over it.</p>
<p class="story-paragraphs graph-texts black-font">Check on the map which of the 117 countries are potential suppliers of these ingredients.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">Wales is famous for its lamb. But Redvers du Wayne, a retired chef from Laugharne, and Tiffany Edwards, a local of Tenby, told me that Welsh lamb has become expensive. Wayne revealed that his recipe of cawl has been made with lamb from New Zealand for decades. For him, New Zealand lamb is tender and delicious but costs less than Welsh lamb. Some locals, like Edwards, prefer bacon or ham, while others opt for beef.</p>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Choose a recipe for your cawl, and on a bowl, let’s trace the strands of the food trade web connecting us to countries around the world, one ingredient at a time.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Beef and lamb</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/meat.png" alt="meat" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Cawl is typically made with the neck, shoulder, shank, or shin of beef or lamb. Jones and Davis use between 1.5 and 2 kg of lamb for about 12–21 servings of cawl. Jones makes four batches of this dish on a good week, while Davis prepares two or three large batches during the summer when tourists flock to her place.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">The UK’s combined average weight of imported sheep and cattle meat from 2007 to 2017—427,364 tonnes—would make around 160 to 213 batches of their recipe for each of the 1.3 million families in Wales.</p>
<p class="story-paragraphs">For sheep meat import alone, weighing an average of 96,217 tonnes, New Zealand has been the UK’s primary source, supplying 73% of the yearly total; this figure equates to a tenth of New Zealand’s annual production. While for cattle meat import, weighing an average of 331,147 tonnes, Irish beef makes up 61% of the yearly total, constituting almost a quarter of Ireland’s production.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">Not only meat was imported into the UK; in 2017, 9,332 cattle and 23 sheep also travelled the distance to be slaughtered and arrive at British dinner tables. Both figures represent a drop every year in the number of traded animals, from 42,483 cattle in 2009 and 68,708 sheep in 2007. Specifically, for sheep, the number declined by large amounts, from 68,708 in 2007 to 17,710 in 2010, then it plunged to 33 in 2011.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Leeks</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/leeks.png" alt="leeks" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">“Leek is an important vegetable,” Ray emphasized, as he dictated his recipe ingredients to me. Leeks are known as among the small number of vegetables that can be grown in one’s backyard and on British soil. “Leek and lamb are the main two ingredients,” he reiterated.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">Aside from the UK’s average yearly production of 40,000 tonnes of leeks and other alliaceous vegetables, minus its average exports of 772 tonnes, about 15,000 tonnes more have been sourced overseas since 2007. Spain and the Netherlands have been its major sources of leeks.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Potatoes</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/potatotes.png" alt="potatoes" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Twenty-one servings of cawl contain roughly a kilogramme of potatoes, Davis said. Both Jones and Davis use the so-called baby potatoes, and certain cookbooks suggest these as the best for cawl. The UK has imported large quantities of potatoes, both fresh and frozen.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<p class="story-paragraphs">An average of 868,000 tonnes of potatoes from around 30 countries, or 31,500 kilos for every family, have become available in British markets since 2007. About 43% come from the Netherlands and 25% from Belgium.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Carrots</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/carrots.png" alt="carrots" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Two kilos of peeled and diced carrots are added into two kilos of meat. Carrots are a major root crop in the UK, which accounts for 2% of world’s production. Since 2007, the average yearly demand for carrots and turnips from outside the country, mainly from France, Italy, and Israel, has been 46,325 tonnes, valued at more than £1.2 million.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Cabbages</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/cabbages.png" alt="cabbages" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Cabbage is not top of mind when Welsh people are asked about cawl’s ingredients, but it appears in some cookbooks, old and new. The UK’s import of cabbages from 2007 to 2017 amounted to an average of £41.6 million or 54,306 tonnes in weight. The Netherlands and Spain are the top exporters, supplying the UK with 8% of each of their annual cabbage production.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section intro-div">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font">Onions</h3>
<br>
<img src="images/onions.png" alt="onions" class="story-image-within-scroll smaller-story-image">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">And, of course, there are onions, added for flavour and texture. The UK has imported about £3.5 million worth of onions and shallots every year since 2007. About 50% come from the Netherlands and 35% from France.</p>
</div>
</div>
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<div id="graph"></div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="part-2">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font one-column-text">Getting food is no longer a day’s work</h3>
<br>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Historian Martin Wright from Cardiff University explained, “All nations developed their own range of food based on basically practical concerns.” Traditional food, like cawl, is “a direct result of what was available and easy to harvest.”</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Wales is the peninsula jutting out of western Britain. It is a mass of mountains deeply dissected by rivers. The clear broth of cawl, with cheese served on the side or mixed with oatmeal, mirrors the benevolence of this peninsula: meat and dairy products from hillside pastures, barley and oats from upland farms, and leeks and root vegetables from the fields.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">When I travelled to Wales’s picturesque countryside, I saw hardly a mountain or lush green plain undotted with sheep. The rural uplands, which form the greater part of Wales, can only support livestock farming, especially of the sheep that is suited to the rigours of the climate, Wright confirmed. Sheep farming developed in upland Wales in the late 17th century, particularly during the boom of wool trade. Lamb production has since become the backbone industry of Wales, resulting in cawl, which used to be prepared by Wales’s Celt ancestors with salted bacon, being associated with lamb.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Cawl was once a staple food of the rural poor, whose main source of income was hillside and cattle or sheep farming. The dish was made with as minimal cheap cuts of meat as possible, cooked long and slow, and served in stages for economy’s sake; the broth was sipped first, the meat and vegetables pitched in second, and the bread and cheese eaten last, like a three-course meal. Its contents varied with the region and the season.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Today, cawl is taken together and considered comfort food.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Long gone are the days of depression period and wartime rationing in the UK that persisted into the 1950s. British people now enjoy a relatively higher disposable income, or the money available for families to be spent or saved after taxes are deducted. Modern affluence in the UK has manifested in consumer abundance. Varieties of fruits and vegetables are no longer a luxury.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Food diet in Wales has diversified. In 2018, although meat remains the centrepiece of meals, constituting 22.7% of the weekly food expenditure of £53.5, an average family in Wales also spent on fresh, chilled, and processed fruits and vegetables (17%); bread, rice, and cereals (9.2%); milk and other milk products (7.9%); buns, cakes, and biscuits (6.4%); fish (3.8%); soft drinks and fruit drinks (3.4%); and chocolate (3.4%).</p>
</div>
<div class="flourish-embed flourish-hierarchy one-column-text heading-title bold-text" data-src="visualisation/2086831" data-url="https://flo.uri.sh/visualisation/2086831/embed"><script src="https://public.flourish.studio/resources/embed.js"></script></div>
<br>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Today, cawl’s ingredients do not have to depend on the season.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Huge developments in global agriculture have improved productivity and the diversity of food. Massive industrial bases in other countries make it possible to get food and other products into the hands of the consumer at a reasonable price. Changes in the global food system have ensured that a wide selection of food products, from New Zealand lamb to Danish bacon to Turkish cheeses, and seasonal fruits and vegetables, such as apples, grapes, and broccoli, are available all year round in British markets and supermarkets.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">The concept of the supermarket, which was introduced in the United States in the 1930s, was brought to the UK in the 1950s. It is associated with convenience and a spectacular array of products. In 2018, 77.7% of the weekly average food consumed by British families across UK were bought in large supermarket chains, such as Waitrose, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, and Lidl; 15.7%, from other outlets; and 6.6%, online.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Jones buys vegetables from wholesalers who source them both locally and elsewhere. Wholesalers, she says, “get what they can from local places, but [because that’s] not always possible, they go with what are available.” And instead of making her own meat stock, she buys it at a supermarket. For Davis, she gets vegetables at a local supermarket in Carmarthen, a larger town that is a 20-minute drive from Laugharne. Edwards also relies on supermarkets for food ingredients.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">“Things have changed over the years; it’s now a little bit easier (to source ingredients and cook cawl),” said Jones.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div id="part-3">
<h3 class="heading-title black-font one-column-text">Forging a new identity</h3>
<br>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Cawl’s nature as a part of the everyday life of Welsh communities has been altered in meaning. It now connotes a local identity and a tourist attraction.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">“[It] isn’t necessarily a Sunday dish. It’s just a common dish that we’ve had in the house,” Ray described.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Ray opened his restaurant a month before the start of the winter in 2019. They didn’t serve cawl at first; they baked bread. “And because we bake fresh bread, quite a few people said, ‘oh, we love to have nice fresh cawl with home-baked bread.’”</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">In his restaurant, which sits halfway between the Tenby railway station and the popular North Beach that attracts about 300,000 local and international tourists a year, Ray serves a bowl of cawl for every five customers. “There was huge demand,” he said.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">In some restaurants in Cardiff, the capital of Wales, cawl is served to cater to the vegetarian diet, which may not sit well with traditional-minded Welsh restaurant owners like Ray.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Wright said that the massive migration to Cardiff through the years has made it different from the traditional towns, like Tenby, in Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire, where the proportion of Welsh-speaking people is greater.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">Cardiff is a cosmopolitan city of more than 360,000 people with varying cultural and food preferences and who have introduced their own food practices and incorporated their own tastes into the local cuisine.</p>
</div>
<div class="sub-section">
<p class="story-paragraphs one-column-text">“[In Cardiff], you’ve got a mix of traditional and global cuisine,” he said.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="credits-div one-column-text">
<br>
<p class="story-paragraphs">Please go to <span class="text-with-underline grey-hover"><a href = about.html#part-3-about>About</a></span> page for details on data sources and methodology.</p>
</div>
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